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June 22nd, 2010 02:33:36 pm |
Acanthastrea Lordowensis are an amazing large polyped coral. Their lighting requirements differ from colony to colony and ultimately affect their survivability under those conditions but also it growth and also its colors. Many of these these do well under intense light, yet not direct. Though there are a few that only excel under direct intense light. This usually comes about with some trial and error. Most of the acanthastrea corals for us prefer the indirect intensity of metal halides. Here at Great Ocean Wonders we have the majority of our Acan's under 400 watt XM 20K light. Some of you may be thinking that this is a lot, but our pendants are 18 inches above the water, over a 4 foot wide tank. Some of the best colors come on those that are furthest from the light. They still receive a good amount of light on the outskirts. We have found that by looking at the lower edges of the corals we can gauge whether the coral will enjoy more or less intensity. Certain acan's will show more colors as well as more multi-colorations with more intensity under the lower lighting area's. So don't be afraid to look at your acan's edges and baby colonies to see if they might enjoy a little less light.
One of the nice things with the Acanthastrea Lordowensis is that they can literally sit on top of each other and not fight. We have yet to see any other coral species do this and not have one get burned. This doesn't mean that they will not burn or be burned by other corals, that will happen! But within their own category they seem to view each other as one, so we can have several sitting right up against each other.
If you really want them to grow Feed Them! Feeding them every other day has produced very good growth rates CORAL Magazine even stated feeding twice per day, we are a little to busy right now to do that. We don't if that is a good idea or not, the fear would be of over feeding.
Outside of the above, good water parameters, mild to medium current/ water flow (NOT Direct). You will grow some amazing colored acan's and have a large colony in a short period of time.
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June 22nd, 2010 02:30:52 pm |
The standard height is a functional stand, but it is also a self limiting stand. Huh? You can do a lot with the standard stands that are readily available but they will limit a large number of upgrades that you will want to put under your tank, in your sump or even outside of it. If you are going to run larger protein skimmers, calcium reactors, kalk stirrers, reaction chambers, the good ones, larger ones will barely fit, if at all inside a 30" high standard stand. My preference has been for a long time 36" high, as you can get and put much more inside, you have more space to woork in there when you need to. In the end you will be much happier. |
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June 22nd, 2010 02:29:38 pm |
This shouldn't even be a question, Stores should never sell an aquarium that isn't drilled (but they do). Not drilling an aquarium severely limits the customer. All the equipment has to go INSIDE the aquarium. By having a drilled tank, we can hide a sump underneath, this increase the volume of water (a good thing), allows us to hide the protein skimmer in the sump, and any other ancillary equipment. We can even have a water top off system hidden down there, so the water level stays at a constant. Not drilling a tank means tha you are putting all chemicals and additives directly into the tank, calcium blocks will have to sit in the tank in view somewhere, there is little room and choices for hang on protein skimmers. There is no real place for calcium reactors, kalk stirrers, reactor chambers, etc. Drilling the tank makes your life (the hobbiest) easier, less work, who doesn't want that? |
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